Saturday, November 28, 2009
For the Record
Yesterday I bought tomatoes, lemons, a head of broccoli, a bag of rice, an onion, a packet of drink mix, almost 2 liters of milk, mixed vegetables, beans, cheese, and ground meat at the local grocery store for ten dollars. I was so impressed I almost picked up some peanuts, too.
Friday, November 27, 2009
The next weekend I went with Eduardo to Xalapa, the capital of Veracruz, and from there we went to a small pueblo about half an hour to an hour and a half away (depending on who’s driving) to go zip-lining, rappelling, and (checking off something on my life goals list) white water rafting (add it back to my life goals list, so I can do it again)! I had my heroic moment when Eduardo fell out of the boat on a particularly white and choppy rapid, and I bravely threw myself into the river to save him from certain risk of getting wet…oh no I didn’t, I just watched and laughed while the guides hauled him back into the boat. It would have been a futile rescue, because we were already soaked to the bone and life jacket and helmet and clothes.
And then another weekend, my friend Asaki, also from the program, and I ventured to Morelia, Michoacan, a beautiful city with museums, el Mercado de Dulces y Artesanía (Artisan and Candy Market), a fountain of half-naked women, and a Gum Tree.
Gum tree. Call me when I get back with your top three choices of color, for samples.
We also took a day trip, 3 hours in a van each way, to see a bunch of little flying creatures with 6 legs. It was well worth it:
It’s been get a little bit colder, but still hasn’t snowed yet. I think I’ll be waiting for a long time, since it’s almost December and two days ago I was still able to go swimming in the outdoor pool at the university, the most important part of which is pictured below:
On the bottom right you can almost see someone who stood on the lowest diving platform for 30 minutes and took the exit of shame back down the stairs. Whited out for protection of identity. Will give out a name if tempted with wheat thins and nutella, turkey pot pie with three slits or other creative design cut in the top, or another white water rafting trip.
And how could I forget our Halloween party!? I was a chile en nogada, which is a typical Mexican dish because it’s red, white, and green, the colors of the flag. It’s seasonal, only available around July and August. Luckily I was here then so I got to try them, and even (attempt to) help make them!
Above, my friend Enriqueta and I (with my super-sized fork and knife), and a real chile en nogada for comparison (photo “borrowed” from the internet). The white is the nogada sauce, made from a special type of nut that I don’t remember the name of (this is not the end of a sentence so I can put a preposition here right?), the green is cilantro, and the reds are pomegranate seeds.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
I'm not dead yet!
Two weeks ago found us heading south to the state of Oaxaca to celebrate el Día de los Muertos. Literally translated to “Day of the Dead,” it’s a celebration, rather than mourning, of deceased (obviously) friends and family members. Someone was explaining this tradition to me, and he mentioned the following observation: “foreigners have a hard time understanding it…you probably think we’re really crazy, celebrating death like this.” Meanwhile I had actually been thinking, “this is the awesomist holiday I’ve ever heard of.” Does that put me into the category of crazy once again?
Sidenote: I know awesomist is not a word, but that’s the word I was thinking. I am trying to maintain the authenticity of the story. Sank yo doctor.
And it was indeed the most amazing celebration I’ve experienced. Before the actual day (well, several days—when you can’t fit it all into 24 hours, just add more hours) there is the usual commercialization that comes before every holiday: there are sugar- and chocolate-skulls sold in the shops, the kids dress up in costumes and go around asking for money, the Catrinas (skeleton figurines) appear in windows…
Calaveras de azúcar (sugar skulls)
But in reality it is still taken seriously, and in each house the family puts up an ofrenda, or offering, for the family member being remembered. A table of three layers is elaborately decorated with food, drinks, incense, a photo of the person, hojaldra (a special type of bread), flowers, candles, and the person’s favorite items, so that they feel welcomed when their spirits come back. And when they've had their fill, if you get hungry, you can steal food from the table. So that it doesn’t go to waste.
Una ofrenda en un restaurante
By far the part that made the biggest impression on me was the nighttime visit to the cemetery. I had never before seen more alive people than dead people in a graveyard, but there it was, packed to the brim with people, flowers, and the occasional mariachi band, all ready to spend the night there. It simply amazed me…all these people sitting by the tombstones of family members, but no one crying. They were there just to be with them, because the spirits supposedly come back on this night. We couldn’t have been more out of place, a group of United Statesians weaving through the Mexican families, tripping over mounds of dirt and speaking spanglish, and we could feel each other’s discomfort, but we brought flowers to put on the abandoned graves, and I’m glad I got to go as I have never seen anything remotely like this before.
Wouldn't it be interesting to see what your own ofrenda would be like?